Category: Uncategorized

New Routes in Patagonia (Explorersweb) + The Classic Ragni Route on Patagonia’s Cerro Torre +

New Routes in Patagonia – from Explorersweb.com website
The Classic Ragni Route on Patagonia's Cerro Torre – from Gripped.com (and PlanetMountain)
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https://explorersweb.com/2020/11/13/new-routes-in-patagonia/ — New Routes in Patagonia.

https://gripped.com/profiles/the-classic-ragni-route-on-patagonias-cerro-torre/ — The Classic Ragni Route on Patagonia's Cerro Torre.

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New Routes in Patagonia – from Explorersweb.com website

The Classic Ragni Route on Patagonia's Cerro Torre – from Gripped.com (and PlanetMountain)

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https://explorersweb.com/2020/11/13/new-routes-in-patagonia/ — New Routes in Patagonia.


https://gripped.com/profiles/the-classic-ragni-route-on-patagonias-cerro-torre/ — The Classic Ragni Route on Patagonia's Cerro Torre.


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Mountain of the Sun, Projeny – Utah — Trip Report + More Ama Dablam Summits +

Moumtain of the Sun, Projeny – Utah — Trip Report with pictures from Seano
More Ama Dablam Summits – from Explorersweb.com website
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http://www.drdirtbag.com/2020/11/13/mountain-of-the-sun-progeny/ — Mountain of the Sun, Progeny – Utah — Trip report with pictures from Seano.

https://explorersweb.com/2020/11/13/more-ama-dablam-summits/ — More Ama Dablam Summits.

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Moumtain of the Sun, Projeny – Utah — Trip Report with pictures from Seano

More Ama Dablam Summits – from Explorersweb.com website

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http://www.drdirtbag.com/2020/11/13/mountain-of-the-sun-progeny/ — Mountain of the Sun, Progeny – Utah — Trip report with pictures from Seano.


https://explorersweb.com/2020/11/13/more-ama-dablam-summits/ — More Ama Dablam Summits.


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Skiing Nepal and Pakistan : New Winter Trend + 2 Hikers Rescued on Mt Elbert CO + Sierra De Los Baguales – Cerro Redondo – Chile

Skiing Nepal and Pakistan : A New Winter Trend — from Explorersweb.com
2 Hikers in jeans and tennis shoes rescued on Mt Elbert – Colorado — by SnowBrains.com
Sierra De Los Bagueles – Cerro Redondo – Chile/Patagonia – from Paragonia Vertical Facebook
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https://explorersweb.com/2020/11/12/skiing-nepal-and-pakistan-a-new-winter-trend/ — Skiing Nepal and Pakistan : A New Winter Trend.

https://snowbrains.com/hikers-jeans-tennis-shoes-lost-mount-elbert-colorado/ — Two hikers in jeans and tennis shoes lost on Mt El Elbert CO rescued.

https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/sierradelosbaguales — Sierra De Los Baguales – Cerro Redondo – Patagonia/Chile
In mid-October, and inspired by photos from friends that had opened “Painakan” earlier in the month (see previous post), Antonia Alduna, Sebastian Pelletti and Nico Secul, visited Cerro Redondo where they opened “Contra Corriente”, a ..

Skiing Nepal and Pakistan : A New Winter Trend — from Explorersweb.com

2 Hikers in jeans and tennis shoes rescued on Mt Elbert – Colorado — by SnowBrains.com

Sierra De Los Bagueles – Cerro Redondo – Chile/Patagonia – from Paragonia Vertical Facebook

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https://explorersweb.com/2020/11/12/skiing-nepal-and-pakistan-a-new-winter-trend/ — Skiing Nepal and Pakistan : A New Winter Trend.

https://snowbrains.com/hikers-jeans-tennis-shoes-lost-mount-elbert-colorado/ — Two hikers in jeans and tennis shoes lost on Mt El Elbert CO rescued.

https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/sierradelosbaguales — Sierra De Los Baguales – Cerro Redondo – Patagonia/Chile

In mid-October, and inspired by photos from friends that had opened “Painakan” earlier in the month (see previous post), Antonia Alduna, Sebastian Pelletti and Nico Secul, visited Cerro Redondo where they opened “Contra Corriente”, a second line on the south face. The first pitch climbs a steep waterfall (WI5 60m), to then follow snow-ramps (60˚) with short mixed sections. A traverse to the right led to another two-pitch ice section (to 90˚), and more snow and mixed terrain to reach the ridge. The summit offered incredible views of the entire southern Patagonia cordillera, from Cerro Fitz Roy to the north, and the Torres de Paine to the southwest. On the way back they crossed two Pato de los Torrentes (an endangered duck species) swimming up-stream: “counter current”.

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Pine Valley Peak, Northgate West – Utah + Milford Sound Airport Wall – New Zealand + Patagonia Facebook Posting

Pine Valley Peak, Northgate West – Zion, Utah — Trip report with pictures from Seano
Milford Sound Airport Wall – New Zealand — from AlpineTeam.co.nz – Trip report and pictures
Patagonia Facebook Posting – below in Facebook section – Sierra de los Baguales
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http://www.drdirtbag.com/2020/11/12/pine-valley-peak-northgate-west/ — Pine Valley Peak, Northgate West — Utah — Trip report with pictures from Seano.

https://alpineteam.co.nz/2020/mile-high-club-700m-22-pitches26-27-airport-wall-milford-sound — Milford Sound – Airport Wall – New Zealand — Trip Report with pictures.

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In early October, Eduardo Web..

Pine Valley Peak, Northgate West – Zion, Utah — Trip report with pictures from Seano

Milford Sound Airport Wall – New Zealand — from AlpineTeam.co.nz – Trip report and pictures

Patagonia Facebook Posting – below in Facebook section – Sierra de los Baguales

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http://www.drdirtbag.com/2020/11/12/pine-valley-peak-northgate-west/ — Pine Valley Peak, Northgate West — Utah — Trip report with pictures from Seano.

https://alpineteam.co.nz/2020/mile-high-club-700m-22-pitches26-27-airport-wall-milford-sound — Milford Sound – Airport Wall – New Zealand — Trip Report with pictures.

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https://www.facebook.com/Patagonia-Vertical-563620956987849/

In early October, Eduardo Weber, Chacho Navarro, Gonzalo V ássquez and Karla Barria visited the Sierra de los Baguales, a mountain chain northeast of Torres de Paine. Initially they went skiing, but when they saw the south side of Redondo Hill, they decided to climb it again, opening ′′ Painakan ", a 800 m line with snow and ice from 65 ̊ to 70 ̊, and short sections of up to 90 ̊. Ascension required them 15 hours, and it was the first of the wall and possibly the mountain. From the summit they went down north. The name recalls the last Anoikenk chief who lived in the area, in the end of 1800 and until 1910.

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Pine Valley Peak, Northgate West – Utah + Milford Sound Airport Wall – New Zealand +

Pine Valley Peak, Northgate West – Zion, Utah — Trip report with pictures from Seano
Milford Sound Airport Wall – New Zealand — from AlpineTeam.co.nz – Trip report and pictures
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http://www.drdirtbag.com/2020/11/12/pine-valley-peak-northgate-west/ — Pine Valley Peak, Northgate West — Utah — Trip report with pictures from Seano.

https://alpineteam.co.nz/2020/mile-high-club-700m-22-pitches26-27-airport-wall-milford-sound — Milford Sound – Airport Wall – New Zealand — Trip Report with pictures.

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Pine Valley Peak, Northgate West – Zion, Utah — Trip report with pictures from Seano

Milford Sound Airport Wall – New Zealand — from AlpineTeam.co.nz – Trip report and pictures

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http://www.drdirtbag.com/2020/11/12/pine-valley-peak-northgate-west/ — Pine Valley Peak, Northgate West — Utah — Trip report with pictures from Seano.

https://alpineteam.co.nz/2020/mile-high-club-700m-22-pitches26-27-airport-wall-milford-sound — Milford Sound – Airport Wall – New Zealand — Trip Report with pictures.

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Summits in Nepal, First on El Capitan + Mountain Tourism in Nepal : Flashes of Light in the Dark +

Summits in Nepal, First on El Capitan — from Alan Arnette on his detailed blog
Mountain tourism in Nepal : Flashes of Light in the Dark — from Stephan Nestler
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https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/11/11/summits-in-nepal-first-on-el-cap/ — Alan Arnette — Summits in Nepal, First on El Capitan.

https://abenteuer-berg.de/en/mountain-tourism-in-nepal-flashes-of-light-in-the-dark/ — Stefan Nestler — Mountain tourism in Nepal : Flashes of light in the dark.

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Summits in Nepal, First on El Capitan — from Alan Arnette on his detailed blog

Mountain tourism in Nepal : Flashes of Light in the Dark — from Stephan Nestler

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https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/11/11/summits-in-nepal-first-on-el-cap/ — Alan Arnette — Summits in Nepal, First on El Capitan.

https://abenteuer-berg.de/en/mountain-tourism-in-nepal-flashes-of-light-in-the-dark/ — Stefan Nestler — Mountain tourism in Nepal : Flashes of light in the dark.



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Summit Day on Ama Dablam + Qatar Prince’s Expedition Team Scales Amadablam + Covid-19 Climber Rescued – Rescuers in Quarantine

Summit Day on Ama Dablam – from Explorersweb.com website
Qatar Prince's expedition team scales Amadablam – from the Himalayan Times
Covid 19 Positive climber is rescued. Rescuers in Quarantine – from Montagna.tv (English)
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https://explorersweb.com/2020/11/11/summit-day-on-ama-dablam/ — Summit Day on Ama Dablam.

https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/qatar-princes-expedition-team-scales-mt-amadablam/ — Qatar Prince's expedition team scales Mt Amadablam.

https://www.montagna.tv/169903/positivo-al-covid-19-va-ad-arrampicare-e-cade-salvato-e-denunciato-soccorritori-in-quarantena/ — Positive at Covid-19, he falls. Saved and reported. Rescuers in quarantine.

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Summit Day on Ama Dablam – from Explorersweb.com website

Qatar Prince's expedition team scales Amadablam – from the Himalayan Times

Covid 19 Positive climber is rescued. Rescuers in Quarantine – from Montagna.tv (English)

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https://explorersweb.com/2020/11/11/summit-day-on-ama-dablam/ — Summit Day on Ama Dablam.

https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/qatar-princes-expedition-team-scales-mt-amadablam/ — Qatar Prince's expedition team scales Mt Amadablam.

https://www.montagna.tv/169903/positivo-al-covid-19-va-ad-arrampicare-e-cade-salvato-e-denunciato-soccorritori-in-quarantena/ — Positive at Covid-19, he falls. Saved and reported. Rescuers in quarantine.

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Ama Dablam – Rope Fixing Sherpas Open Summit Route + North Six Shooter – South Six Shooter – Utah/Colorado T/R

Qatar prince, others to scale Ama Dablam tomorrow as rope fixing sherpas open Summit Route – Himalayan Times and Facebook
North Six Shooter – South Six Shooter – Lightning Bolt Cracks – South Face Direct — Utah/Colorado — Trip report with pictures from Cascade Climbers
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https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/qatar-prince-others-to-scale-amadablam-tomorrow-as-rope-fixing-sherpas-open-summit-route/ — Quatar prince, others to scale Ama Dablam tomorrow as rope fixing sherpas open summit route. (Seven Summit Treks have just summited Ama Dablam) — https://www.facebook.com/sevensummittreks/

https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/103728-tr-north-six-shooter-south-six-shooter-lightning-bolt-cracks-south-face-direct-11032020/ — North Six Shooter – South Six Shooter — Lightning Bolt Cracks – South Face Direct — Utah/Colorado – Trip report with pictures.

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Qatar prince, others to scale Ama Dablam tomorrow as rope fixing sherpas open Summit Route – Himalayan Times and Facebook

North Six Shooter – South Six Shooter – Lightning Bolt Cracks – South Face Direct — Utah/Colorado — Trip report with pictures from Cascade Climbers

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https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/qatar-prince-others-to-scale-amadablam-tomorrow-as-rope-fixing-sherpas-open-summit-route/ — Quatar prince, others to scale Ama Dablam tomorrow as rope fixing sherpas open summit route. (Seven Summit Treks have just summited Ama Dablam) — https://www.facebook.com/sevensummittreks/

https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/103728-tr-north-six-shooter-south-six-shooter-lightning-bolt-cracks-south-face-direct-11032020/ — North Six Shooter – South Six Shooter — Lightning Bolt Cracks – South Face Direct — Utah/Colorado – Trip report with pictures.

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Winter K2 News, Ama Dablam Summit Push + Fatality off North Maroon Peak – CO + Ferrata Fatality at Trentino – Italy

https://explorersweb.com/2020/11/09/winter-k2-news-ama-dablam-summit-push/ — Winter K2 News, Ama Dablam Summit Push.

https://snowbrains.com/climber-falls-death-north-maroon-peak-aspen-colorado/ — Solo Climber falls 1000 feet to his death off North Maroon Peak near Aspen, Colorado.

https://www.montagna.tv/169697/trentino-incidente-mortale-sulla-ferrata-che-guevara/ — Trentino : Fatal accident on the ” Che Guevara ” via ferrata.

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https://explorersweb.com/2020/11/09/winter-k2-news-ama-dablam-summit-push/ — Winter K2 News, Ama Dablam Summit Push.



https://snowbrains.com/climber-falls-death-north-maroon-peak-aspen-colorado/ — Solo Climber falls 1000 feet to his death off North Maroon Peak near Aspen, Colorado.

https://www.montagna.tv/169697/trentino-incidente-mortale-sulla-ferrata-che-guevara/ — Trentino : Fatal accident on the " Che Guevara " via ferrata.

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so long, Ice Lake

I pulled up my work Outlook calendar. Could it be? No meetings? Gleefully I blocked out the whole day. I don't take days off very often, but because I had to forego most of my vacation time this year due to, you know, a pandemic, and it was a rare 65 degree day in November, I knew I had to do it.
I had a conversation with S, who is the wilderness manager (a position I used to supervise). We discussed the tragedy that was Ice Lake and the further tragedy of the Lakes Basin. But what do you do, we agreed. Do you accept that these areas are concentrated use, sacrifice areas? If you put in a permit system or restrictions, people start spreading to lesser used, quieter spots. It is a dilemma that I have never been able to resolve in my entire career of recreation management. This lake sees particularly egregious behavior: parts of it are one long impacted campsite; people poop indiscriminately, pitch tents right next to the lake, holler and scream. Definitely not a wilderness experienc..

I pulled up my work Outlook calendar. Could it be? No meetings? Gleefully I blocked out the whole day. I don't take days off very often, but because I had to forego most of my vacation time this year due to, you know, a pandemic, and it was a rare 65 degree day in November, I knew I had to do it.
I had a conversation with S, who is the wilderness manager (a position I used to supervise). We discussed the tragedy that was Ice Lake and the further tragedy of the Lakes Basin. But what do you do, we agreed. Do you accept that these areas are concentrated use, sacrifice areas? If you put in a permit system or restrictions, people start spreading to lesser used, quieter spots. It is a dilemma that I have never been able to resolve in my entire career of recreation management. This lake sees particularly egregious behavior: parts of it are one long impacted campsite; people poop indiscriminately, pitch tents right next to the lake, holler and scream. Definitely not a wilderness experience.

No tents today!

But there's November, when it is safe to go to Ice Lake again. In the summer, I have happened upon 100 tents at this lake. The shock and horror of this, when a few years ago you might see two to three parties, is hard to overstate. In some years the snow starts in August and my chance to go there is lost, but not this year.
I saw no other people as I ascended the rocky switchbacks. It is about 8 miles and 4000' elevation gain to get to this lake; not very far, but too far for some: there is some kind of rescue here every year. Today, though, there was only sunshine and aspen leaves falling.

Snow lay in scattered patches once I passed Adams Basin, and at the lake, a strong wind did not encourage loitering. It seemed as though the lake was breathing a sigh of relief–seven months to rest from the human onslaught.

Obligatory dog selfie

As I headed back down, a dog barked above me. I checked the trail–there were no other footprints in the snow besides mine and my own dog's. There had been only one car in the parking lot, a vehicle I recognized as the caretaker of the private cabins on the other trail. Feeling a bit spooked, I hurried down the trail.
I'm always a little sad when winter comes and these lakes are lost to me, but they need a break. I don't know what the answer is; it's good that people can go out and enjoy the wilderness, but the wilderness can't handle all of them. A long winter helps. I'll be back in June (or July, depending on how much it snows).

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