Category: Uncategorized

2020 Winter Himalaya Teams on the Move + Solo Tre Cima di Lavaredo Winter Enchainment + Aguja Poincenot Patagonia Ragni Route

2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs : Teams on the Mobe – from Alan Arnette on his detaailed blog
Simon Gietl completes solo Tre Cima di Lavaredo Winter Enchainment – by PlanetMountain.com
Aguja Poincenot – Patagonia : 40% Gruppo Ragni Route finally repeated. – by PlanetMountain
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New Page on Personal Websites on Summitpost in the General Section of the Forum
https://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/personal-websites-t71571-1410.html
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http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/25/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-teams-on-the-move/ — Alan Arnette — 2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs : Teams on the Move.

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/ … nment.html — Simon Gietl completes solo Tre Cima di Lavaredo winter enchainment
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2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs : Teams on the Mobe – from Alan Arnette on his detaailed blog
Simon Gietl completes solo Tre Cima di Lavaredo Winter Enchainment – by PlanetMountain.com
Aguja Poincenot – Patagonia : 40% Gruppo Ragni Route finally repeated. – by PlanetMountain
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New Page on Personal Websites on Summitpost in the General Section of the Forum
https://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/personal-websites-t71571-1410.html
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http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/25/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-teams-on-the-move/ — Alan Arnette — 2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs : Teams on the Move.

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/ … nment.html — Simon Gietl completes solo Tre Cima di Lavaredo winter enchainment
Please visit my website
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https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/ … eated.html — Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia : 40% Gruppo Ragni Route finally completed

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Everest : Push Begins, Kobusch Passes 7000 m + Evolution Traverse Accident (Jan 28) +

Everest : Push begins , Kobusch Passes 7000m – Sherpas on a different route – Explorersweb.com
Old Tat (hardware) Breaks on Evolution Traverse in the Sierras – January 28 – RockandIce.com
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https://explorersweb.com/2020/02/24/everest-push-begins-kobusch-passes-7000m/ — Everest : Push begind, Kobusch passes 7000m

https://rockandice.com/climbing-accidents/old-tat-breaks-on-evolution-traverse/ — Old Tat breaks on Evolution Traverse in the Sierras – Jan 28

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Matías Korten and agustín mailing opened a new track on the top of the west face of the l's needle. They started by thaw's not houlding Wright, living at the foot of the upper wall, then climbing the obvious “red raja”. the team nece..

Everest : Push begins , Kobusch Passes 7000m – Sherpas on a different route – Explorersweb.com
Old Tat (hardware) Breaks on Evolution Traverse in the Sierras – January 28 – RockandIce.com
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https://explorersweb.com/2020/02/24/everest-push-begins-kobusch-passes-7000m/ — Everest : Push begind, Kobusch passes 7000m



https://rockandice.com/climbing-accidents/old-tat-breaks-on-evolution-traverse/ — Old Tat breaks on Evolution Traverse in the Sierras – Jan 28

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Matías Korten and agustín mailing opened a new track on the top of the west face of the l's needle. They started by thaw's not houlding Wright, living at the foot of the upper wall, then climbing the obvious "red raja". the team necessary for a repetition are double until #4, double tcus, and a game of Stoppers

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Mt Shuksan – White Salmon Gl (Cascades ) + Honnold Climbs Big Routes in Patagonia +

Mt Shuksan – White Salmon Gl – Cascades – WA – Trip report with pictures – Cascade Climbers
Alex Honnold climbs big routes in Patagonia – from Gripped Magazine website
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https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/103306-tr-mount-shuksan-white-salmon-gl-02202020/?tab=comments#comment-1158622 — Mt Shuksan – White Salmon Gl. – Cascades – WA — Trip report with pictures

https://gripped.com/news/alex-honnold-c … patagonia/ — Alex Honnold climbs big routes in Patagonia
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Mt Shuksan – White Salmon Gl – Cascades – WA – Trip report with pictures – Cascade Climbers
Alex Honnold climbs big routes in Patagonia – from Gripped Magazine website
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https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/103306-tr-mount-shuksan-white-salmon-gl-02202020/?tab=comments#comment-1158622 — Mt Shuksan – White Salmon Gl. – Cascades – WA — Trip report with pictures




https://gripped.com/news/alex-honnold-c … patagonia/ — Alex Honnold climbs big routes in Patagonia
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Hiking the Arizona Trail, Passage 18: water in the desert

TC and I exchanged nervous glances. The road to Rogers Trough was rough, though beautiful, and we didn't want to be responsible for damage to our trail angels' car. I would have turned back miles before, I thought, but “Umbrella Man” kept going. “I'm not even in four wheel drive yet!” he exclaimed.
Finally conceding at a exceedingly steep and rocky stretch, our trail angels left us within striking distance of the AZT. A Jeep sailed by, its lone occupant stopping to ensure us that we didn't have all that far to walk. Choking his dust, we deduced that the AZT is probably not as well known as the PCT–there, a Jeep would have likely offered us a ride.
An unfamiliar sun settled on us as we hiked up the road, a plethora of Jeeps roaring by. Missing our turn to the trailhead, we stopped to ask one of them. “Oh, you're miles away,” he said, before driving on (and not offering us a ride). Fortunately between our paper maps, an Inreach, and the Guthook app, we figured o..

TC and I exchanged nervous glances. The road to Rogers Trough was rough, though beautiful, and we didn't want to be responsible for damage to our trail angels' car. I would have turned back miles before, I thought, but "Umbrella Man" kept going. "I'm not even in four wheel drive yet!" he exclaimed.
Finally conceding at a exceedingly steep and rocky stretch, our trail angels left us within striking distance of the AZT. A Jeep sailed by, its lone occupant stopping to ensure us that we didn't have all that far to walk. Choking his dust, we deduced that the AZT is probably not as well known as the PCT–there, a Jeep would have likely offered us a ride.
An unfamiliar sun settled on us as we hiked up the road, a plethora of Jeeps roaring by. Missing our turn to the trailhead, we stopped to ask one of them. "Oh, you're miles away," he said, before driving on (and not offering us a ride). Fortunately between our paper maps, an Inreach, and the Guthook app, we figured out that we were actually on the trail–it merges with the road. Not being purists, we decided that this was good enough and no need to go back miles to find the actual start.

We were hiking southbound, Passages 18-16, mostly because of the difficult access and to avoid a long climb, which now became a rocky descent far down into Reavis Canyon. Burdened with 3.5 liters of water, I attempted to keep up with TC and failed. Several switchbacks later, we were on a flat and cruiser trail. I had been fretting over leaving my fleece jacket behind, but it was apparent that we had picked a great weather window. The late afternoon sun slanted butter-yellow across the saguaro cactus as we reached our dubious water source, a tank near a windmill.

Goldfish water

TC peered in. "There's goldfish in here," she reported. A few cows loitered nearby, looking malevolent. As we pondered the likelihood of having to filter this water, a truck appeared, and the occupants gifted us with some cold water. Trail Magic! Shortly after, we met a Canadian section hiker, Hawkeye, who assured us that water was running in Whitford Canyon. Free from having to drink cow water, we made quick work of a few more miles, winding up just before dark in the canyon.

It was true. The recent rains had created a bubbling creek through rocky cliffs. How lucky were we, I thought, as I set up my tent in the falling darkness. The desert was incredibly green, with purple, yellow and white flowers of unknown names. Tonight we would sleep with the sound of water bashfully trickling over the desert floor.
The next morning, early risers, we were on trail before first light. Our first stop was to be Picketpost trailhead, where we would pick up water we had cached for a potential 22 mile water carry. Though I had started out in my puffy jacket, the day heated up quickly as we threaded our way out and up from Whitford Canyon into a stretch of rolling hills and a gradual descent. (Later I was to learn that both Whitford and Reavis canyon are notorious flash flood paths. Fortunately, we were never threatened.)
Though we could see Highway 60 for a long way, it seemed to take longer than it should to tick off the eight miles to relative civilization. We sat on benches drinking cold water and contemplating our life choices. We hadn't planned to do twenty mile days, but if we did another 12, we would end up at the famed rainwater collector–a structure that had been put up for AZT users and significantly assists with the ability to hike the passage we were entering. (If not for this collector, the distance without reliable water would more than double.) It was either carry 5 liters and camp shy of that, or carry only 3 and be able to hike faster.

These really neat gates abound in all three passages. Interestingly, they all have different ways of opening.

Twenty miles, I hadn't done that since the summer. I knew that while I felt relatively fit, there would be some shock and awe associated with hiking that far with a backpack. In the end, though, I was up for the challenge. Shouldering our packs under a hot mid-day sun. we headed into Passage 17 and the unknown.

Crossing Whitford Creek in the early morning
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Everest : New Sherpa Team Makes Surprise Entrance + Final Winter Everest Summit Pushes +

Everest (Winter) : New Sherpa Team Makes Surprise Entrance — from Explorersweb.com
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs : Final Winter Summit Pushes -AlanArnette on his detaied blog
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https://explorersweb.com/2020/02/23/everest-sherpa-team-makes-surprise-entrance/ — Winter Everest : New Sherpa team makes surprise entrance.

http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/23/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-final-winter-summit-pushes/ — Alan Arnette — 2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs : Final Winter Summit Pushes.

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Everest (Winter) : New Sherpa Team Makes Surprise Entrance — from Explorersweb.com
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs : Final Winter Summit Pushes -AlanArnette on his detaied blog
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https://explorersweb.com/2020/02/23/everest-sherpa-team-makes-surprise-entrance/ — Winter Everest : New Sherpa team makes surprise entrance.



http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/23/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-final-winter-summit-pushes/ — Alan Arnette — 2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs : Final Winter Summit Pushes.


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Last Chance for Winter Everest : Kobusch Moves + Cerro Union in the Andes + Txikon Summit Push Feb 24 or 25

Last Chance for Winter Everest : Kobusch Moves, Txikon Readies – from Explorersweb.com
Cerro Union in the Andes — Trip report with pictures from Seano on his website (Dr Dirtbag)
Alex Txikon summit push possible February 24 or 25 on Winter Everest without oxygen Desnivel
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https://explorersweb.com/2020/02/22/last-chance-for-winter-everest-kobusch-moves-txikon-readies/ — Last Chance for Winter Everest : Kobusch Moves, Txikon Readies.

http://www.drdirtbag.com/2020/02/22/cerro-union/ — Seano — Cerro Union – Andes — Trip report with pictures

https://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/alex-txikon-partira-manana-lunes-24-o-martes-25-a-intentar-la-cima-del-everest-invernal-sin-oxigeno/? — Winter Everest summit push possible February 24 or 25

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Last Chance for Winter Everest : Kobusch Moves, Txikon Readies – from Explorersweb.com
Cerro Union in the Andes — Trip report with pictures from Seano on his website (Dr Dirtbag)
Alex Txikon summit push possible February 24 or 25 on Winter Everest without oxygen Desnivel
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https://explorersweb.com/2020/02/22/last-chance-for-winter-everest-kobusch-moves-txikon-readies/ — Last Chance for Winter Everest : Kobusch Moves, Txikon Readies.


http://www.drdirtbag.com/2020/02/22/cerro-union/ — Seano — Cerro Union – Andes — Trip report with pictures


https://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/alex-txikon-partira-manana-lunes-24-o-martes-25-a-intentar-la-cima-del-everest-invernal-sin-oxigeno/? — Winter Everest summit push possible February 24 or 25
Alex Txikon con uno de sus compañeros en la expedición invernal al Everest sin oxígeno 2020.
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AGUJA STANDHARDT – “Il dado è tratto” – topo..Here is the topo for “Il dado e’ tratto”, the new route climbed a couple of weeks ago by Matteo Bernasconi, Matteo Della Bordella and Matteo Pasquetto, on the north face of Aguja Standhardt. .The name, which comes from the Julius Caesar quote “Alea iacta est”, means “the die is cast”, and is a play on words because the word die in Italian also means nut (Stopper).
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Last Chance for Winter Everest : Kobusch Moves + Cerro Union in the Andes +

Last Chance for Winter Everest : Kobusch Moves, Txikon Readies – from Explorersweb.com
Cerro Union in the Andes — Trip report with pictures from Seano on his website (Dr Dirtbag)
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https://explorersweb.com/2020/02/22/las … n-readies/ — Last Chance for Winter Everest : Kobusch Moves, Txikon Readies.
http://www.drdirtbag.com/2020/02/22/cerro-union/ — Seano — Cerro Union – Andes — Trip report with pictures
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Last Chance for Winter Everest : Kobusch Moves, Txikon Readies – from Explorersweb.com
Cerro Union in the Andes — Trip report with pictures from Seano on his website (Dr Dirtbag)
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https://explorersweb.com/2020/02/22/las … n-readies/ — Last Chance for Winter Everest : Kobusch Moves, Txikon Readies.
http://www.drdirtbag.com/2020/02/22/cerro-union/ — Seano — Cerro Union – Andes — Trip report with pictures
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Diehards on Everest and Batura Sar + Marmolejo in Chile (T/R and Pictures) + Latok and Choktoi Valley

The Diehards on Everest and Batura Sar – from Explorersweb.com website
Marmolejo in Chile – Trip report with pictures from Seano on his blog (Dr Dirtbag)
Heading back to Latok with Simon Gietl and Choktoi Valley with Thomas Huber – Salewa.com
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https://explorersweb.com/2020/02/21/the-diehards-on-everest-and-batura-sar/ — The Diehards on Everest and Batura Sar
http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/21/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-only-two-left/

http://www.drdirtbag.com/2020/02/21/marmolejo/ — Seano — Marmolejo – Chile — Trip Report with pictures

https://www.salewa.com/latok-heading-back – Heading back to Latok with Simon Gietl and Choktoi Valley with Thomas Huber

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The Diehards on Everest and Batura Sar – from Explorersweb.com website
Marmolejo in Chile – Trip report with pictures from Seano on his blog (Dr Dirtbag)
Heading back to Latok with Simon Gietl and Choktoi Valley with Thomas Huber – Salewa.com
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https://explorersweb.com/2020/02/21/the-diehards-on-everest-and-batura-sar/ — The Diehards on Everest and Batura Sar
http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/02/21/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-only-two-left/




http://www.drdirtbag.com/2020/02/21/marmolejo/ — Seano — Marmolejo – Chile — Trip Report with pictures



https://www.salewa.com/latok-heading-back – Heading back to Latok with Simon Gietl and Choktoi Valley with Thomas Huber

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Diehards on Everest and Batura Sar + Marmolejo in Chile (T/R and Pictures) +

The Diehards on Everest and Batura Sar – from Explorersweb.com website
Marmolejo in Chile – Trip report with pictures from Seano on his blog (Dr Dirtbag)
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https://explorersweb.com/2020/02/21/the-diehards-on-everest-and-batura-sar/ — The Diehards on Everest and Batura Sar

http://www.drdirtbag.com/2020/02/21/marmolejo/ — Seano — Marmolejo – Chile — Trip Report with pictures

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The Diehards on Everest and Batura Sar – from Explorersweb.com website
Marmolejo in Chile – Trip report with pictures from Seano on his blog (Dr Dirtbag)
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https://explorersweb.com/2020/02/21/the-diehards-on-everest-and-batura-sar/ — The Diehards on Everest and Batura Sar




http://www.drdirtbag.com/2020/02/21/marmolejo/ — Seano — Marmolejo – Chile — Trip Report with pictures



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Aiguille du Peigne on Mont Blanc massif + New Routes on Busy Patagonia Spire + M Hood in Oregon Devil’s Kitchen Headwall

Herri and Boissenot score new descent on Aiguille du Peigne on Mont Blanc massif – PlanetMtn
Traffis Jams and new routes on Patagonia Spire – from Rock and Ice magazine's website
Mt Hood in Oregon – Devil's Kitchen Headwall Variation -Trip report with pictures – CascadeClm
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https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/snow-ski-skimountaineering/julien-herry-yannick-boissenot-score-new-new-descent-aiguille-du-peigne-mont-blanc.html — Herry and Boissenot score new descent om Aiguille du Peigne in the Mont Blanc massif.

https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/traffic-jams-and-new-routes-on-patagonian-spires/ — Traffic Jams and New Routes on Patagonia Spires

https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/103301-tr-mt-hood-devils-kitchen-headwall-variation-0-02182020/ — Mt Hood – Oregon – Devil's Kitchen Headwall Variation

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Herri and Boissenot score new descent on Aiguille du Peigne on Mont Blanc massif – PlanetMtn
Traffis Jams and new routes on Patagonia Spire – from Rock and Ice magazine's website
Mt Hood in Oregon – Devil's Kitchen Headwall Variation -Trip report with pictures – CascadeClm
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https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/snow-ski-skimountaineering/julien-herry-yannick-boissenot-score-new-new-descent-aiguille-du-peigne-mont-blanc.html — Herry and Boissenot score new descent om Aiguille du Peigne in the Mont Blanc massif.



https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/traffic-jams-and-new-routes-on-patagonian-spires/ — Traffic Jams and New Routes on Patagonia Spires

https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/103301-tr-mt-hood-devils-kitchen-headwall-variation-0-02182020/ — Mt Hood – Oregon – Devil's Kitchen Headwall Variation

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Back from a month in Patagonia. Nefarious weather, on the ugly stable, then finally came nice and we went for some ice, in the middle of the southern summer. The call of Cerro Torre irresistible, this time we climbed from the south the side visible already from the pampa. The beautiful ice line exposed by Tiempos Perdidos that leads to the Colle della Speranza, then along the road dei Spiders of Lecco now the classic at the Torre, always bellísima. Thanks to Jorge Ackerman with whom we experienced moments of uncertainty. Good luck on the next climb. Thanks to La Sportiva and Black Diamond for the support. Thanks to the legendary Seba of
Aylen-aike Hostel
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